The Builder In You

With the broad range of bathroom faucets available toady, you can easily find a unique and stylish model that is also practical for your family’s daily use. When looking for a faucet for your bathroom, you will need to consider how it will be mounted, what finish will complement your bathroom’s design and the number of handles that best meet your needs.

MOUNTING

The type of mounting you will need is dependent upon the sink you currently have or the new one you have chosen.  If it is a self-rimming, undermount, pedestal, console or wall-hung sink, you will need to count the number of holes already drilled into the sink.  If you have one of these types of sinks, the types of faucets you can use are:

Centerset – The spout is centered between the two handles which are typically four inches apart.  If you choose this type of faucet, your sink must have individual holes for the spout and each handle and a based unit that covers the holes.

Widespread - Each of the two handles are mounted separately and can be anywhere from six to 16 inches apart.  The spout is also separate and does not have to align with the handles.  This type tends to be considerably more expensive.

Mini-widespread – This faucet is frequently used with antique sinks or their reproductions.  They need the basic three-hole installation and look as if they have a spout and independent hot and cold water handles.

Wall-mounted – The spout and handles are mounted on the wall and are typically used with vessel sinks.  When selecting this type of faucet, be sure to check that the spout reaches far enough to clear the side of the sink.

FINISHES

There is a wide assortment of finishes available in bathroom sinks.  They range from the more common chrome and nickel to brass, iron, gold and platinum.  These materials can come in satin, brushed, high-glass and antique finishes.  When deciding on a finish, consider what would be aesthetically pleasing and blend with the other fixtures in your bathroom.

HANDLES

Who will be using this bathroom is a significant consideration for the number of handles you will want to select for your bathroom faucet. Single handle and two-handle faucets each meet different needs.  The single handle faucet has a more minimalist look and is easier to operate, particularly for children and those individuals who have difficulty gripping.  The two-handle faucet makes it a little easier to get the mixture of hot and cold water just right for you.

Once you have determined the type of faucet your sink can use, there are any number of choices available to provide you with a design focal point in your bathroom while still meeting your family’s practical needs.

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There are three (3) main types of foundations for homes and they are concrete slabs, crawl spaces and basements.

Concrete Slab – Sometimes referred to as slab-on-grade, the concrete slab is the easiest and least expensive foundation to build. A slab-on-grade is a flat concrete pad pored directly onto the ground, taking very little excavation, form work or labor. The day after the slab is poured, wall framing can often begin. It consists of concrete beams that are placed about 2 feet deep into the soil. Then, a 4 to 6 inch layer of gravel is put down, covered by a 4-millimeter sheet of plastic to keep the moisture out, and then a 4 to 6 inch layer of concrete is poured on top of that. Any sewer pipes and possibly electrical conduit must be in place before the concrete is poured. These are embedded in the slab. While this is less expensive than a basement or crawl space, you are limited if you want to add plumbing after the slab has been poured.

A slab-on-grade is frequently used in two ways: either as the bottom floor of a home or as a floor of a home with a daylight basement where the floor is about even with the outside earth. These are mostly commonly used in warmer climates with mild winters not requiring a deep foundation.

Crawl Spaces – Crawl space is a step or two above a slab and is defined as the space between the bottom floor and the earth. It is typically anywhere from 18 inches to four feet high and is enclosed with cement or cinder blocks which have been placed on a concrete beam. The concrete or cinder blocks may be covered on the exterior with brick. A crawl space is less expensive to build than a basement and is comparable in price to a slab foundation. The duct work and plumbing can run the crawl space allowing for ease of service and repair. The floor system over and the foundation walls inside of the crawl space almost always need to be insulated.

Basement – Basements can be a good choice for sites that slope steeply and in climates having cold winters with frost penetration. It consists of a hole about 8 feet deep at the bottom of which is a concrete slab. The outer walls consist of either concrete or cinder blocks which rest on a concrete beam. If the outer walls are concrete, you may choose to use Insulated Concrete Forms or ICF which are forms or molds that have built-in insulation for accepting reinforced concrete.

Ask any homeowner who has a basement and they will often tell you they would never be without one. The cost per square foot for this bonus space is often a fraction of what you pay for the living space stacked above it. If you do an actual cost analysis of a full height foundation versus a crawl space, you will find it costs very little to upgrade to the full foundation. If you can afford the extra cost, ask your contractor to consider extra height foundation walls that allow you to have a clear ceiling height of eight feet or more beneath any and all beams that support floor joists.

Depending on your region, site conditions and design of your dream home, one of these foundation types will be right for you. Your architect or designer can help you decide which of these are best for your project.

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Water heating represents between 14% and 25% of the energy used in your home.  Selecting the right hot water heater impacts not only the comfort of your family but your energy usage for years to come.  To purchase the right hot water heater for you and your family, there are four major factors you will want to take into consideration – the type of fuel used to heat the water, the capacity of the hot water heater you will need to meet your family’s hot water usage, the efficiency of the hot water heater you select and the costs associated with the system you are considering.

Fuel- The two most common fuels for water heating are gas and electricity with propane and fuel oil also being used in some areas.

Capacity- When purchasing a hot water heater, you will want one that meets the needs of your family’s hot water usage.  Most of us would look to the size of the hot water tank, but what is most effective is to look at its peak hour demand capacity.  On a tank’s Energy Guide Label, you will see a First Hour Rating (FHR) number.  What this represents is how much hot water that heater will deliver during a busy hour.  As an example, a hot water heater you look at could have a tank capacity of 50 gallons but have an 82 FHR.  This means it will deliver 82 gallons of hot water in an hour.  Gas hot water heaters have a higher FHR than electric water heaters with the same water storage capacity.  So if you are using gas to heat your water, you may be able to use a heater with a smaller storage tank.  Estimate your family’s hot water usage during the busiest hour of your day to determine what is best for your needs.

To estimate how much hot water you will need in a busy hour, here are some averages available from the U.S. Department of Energy to help you.  A shower takes an average of 15 gallons of hot water, while a bath will take 20 gallons.  Washing clothes uses 32 gallons of hot water in an hour compared to your dishwasher which uses 14.  Other routine tasks such as food preparation, shaving and washing your hands use anywhere from 2 to 5 gallons of hot water.

Efficiency – The fuel efficiency of your hot water heater is measured by what is called the Energy Factor or EF which measures thermal losses from the tank.  The higher the EF, the more efficient the hot water heater.  The average EF ratings by fuel source are

Gas                  .05 to .05

Electric            .07 to .95

Oil                   .07 to .85

Heat pumps     1.5 to 2.0

This information can be found in the literature from the water heater’s manufacturer or from your dealer.

Cost – When comparing costs between water heaters, you will want to take into account three things – the initial cost of the heater itself, its ongoing maintenance and the annual energy costs to heat the water.  The ongoing maintenance can be measured by its warranty, and the Energy Guide Label will provide an estimate of its annual operating costs.  On the average, a hot water heater lasts 13 years.  Look at all of these factors over that over that period of time to develop an accurate comparison between the hot water heaters you are considering.

Types of Hot Water Heating Systems

There are several water heating technologies on the market today.

Conventional hot water heating is a system which stores the heated water in a tank and is the most common type of hot water heater you will see in homes today.  The tank can range from 20 to 80 gallons and operates by the hot water being drawn of the top of the tank what a faucet is turned on.  Cold water then enters the bottom of the tank to be heated, ensuring the tank is always full. With this type of system, energy can be lost because the tank is constantly being heated, whether a hot water faucet is turned on or not.

Demand or tankless hot water heaters heat and deliver hot water when it is needed, not store it in a tank. This is done by a heating device that is activated by the flow of water when a hot water faucet is turned on. The capacity of a tankless system is measured by how many degrees the water temperature increases at a given flow rate.  These systems are available in gas, electric or propane models.  They come in models which heat water for your whole house or smaller units designed to supplement or boost other hot water heating systems.

Heat pump hot water heaters extract heat from the air (inside and outside) and deliver it to the water. While these save energy costs on an ongoing basis, their installation costs are significantly more than the other systems.  This is where a careful comparison of all costs, both initial and ongoing, is important to your decision making.

Solar hot water heaters typically work in conjunction with another hot water heating system.  By using the sun’s energy to either heat the water itself, or the energy from the solar system heats the water, the water is stored in a tank.  If additional heating is necessary, it is provided by a conventional hot water heating system.  By having the solar hot water heater system be the primary provider of heat, your hot water heating costs could be reduced by as much as 80%.

Hot water heating systems are not glamorous or all that interesting, but by taking the time to select the right unit for you and your family, you can have the comfort of hot water whenever you need it while saving energy usage and costs.

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Heating and cooling your home represents almost one half of the money you will spend on energy every year.  If your home is poorly insulated, those costs can be even greater. The amount of insulation as well as its effectiveness is “key” to your energy usage.

By nature, heat flows from a warmer area to a cooler area due to the difference in temperature. So in winter, the warm air in your heated rooms will move to the cooler unheated areas such as the attic, garage, crawl spaces or outside.  During summer, the warm outside air will transfer to the cooler interior of your home because of the higher temperature outside as well as the admission of sunlight.  In either case, your HVAC (Heating – Ventilation – Air Conditioning) system must work to replace or remove the heat lost or gained.  The effectiveness of your insulation will directly impact how hard your HVAC system must work which then directly impact your energy costs.

Insulation’s role is to slow down the transfer of heat.  This is measured in its ability to resist air flow, which is called R-value (resist value). The higher the R-value is, the greater its resistance to heat.  Its R-value will be determined by the type of material it is made from, the thickness of the insulation and the density of the insulating material itself.

There isn’t just one correct R-value for all areas of the country or for all areas of the house.  Shown below is a table prepared by the U.S. Department of Energy for Targeted Insulation levels for different areas of the country and locations within your home. Take a minute to review this chart and see where you are.

Target Insulation Levels

If you want to know what the R-value of  the insulation in your current home, either look for an “energy label” containing the home’s R-values near the main electric service panel or near the hatch or stairway .  If you can’t find a posted energy label, look directly on the insulation for the R-value or measure the actual thickness of the insulation.

In addition to the R-Value, installing your insulation correctly is critical to its effectiveness.

There are five (5) common installation problems that can occur.

1. One of the types of insulation is Batts. If it is compressed it will provide less resistance to heat and can provide a channel for air and heat movement.
2. If your Batts or Vapor Barrier is stapled to the inside of the studs, unwanted air movement can occur between the studs and the insulation.  It should always be stapled on top of the studs, allowing the Batt to completely fill the cavity in which it is placed.
3. Not completely filling irregular areas or small voids with insulation can cause heat loss.  A void of 1-2% can result in a 25-40% loss in R-value in that area.  It is for this reason; different types of insulation may be used in the same home.
4. If you don’t install loose-fill cellulose insulation to its property density, heat loss can occur.  The proper density is called fluffing.
5. Heat can be conducted through the studs and joists of your home.  This is called short circuiting or bridging the insulation.  With careful design and proper installation, this can be minimized.

While your contractor will be looking out for these common problems, it is helpful for you to know what will be affecting your energy costs for the life of your home.

Some areas of your home will have a greater opportunity for heat loss than others.  If you have to prioritize which to insulate first, this is the recommended order:

1. Attic, including the attic door or cover hatch
2. Beneath floors above unheated spaces such as garages, unfinished basements and crawlspaces
3. Around walls in an heated basement or unventilated crawlspace
4. Around the edges of a slab-on-grade foundation.

As you work with your architect or designer and contractor, ask questions about how your home will be insulated.  This planning can save you money in the future as well as protect the earth’s precious resources.

What are the different types on insulation in a home?

One inch of insulation = 30 inches of concrete

There are nine (9) types of insulation used in home construction and remodeling today.  The type of insulation used can be based on the area of the house needing insulation as well as the cost.

The R-Value of Fiberglass insulation is 3.14 per inch

1. Rolls and Batts – These are blankets of flexible products such as fiberglass or rock wool and come in continuous rolls with widths suitable for standard wall stud spacing and attic or floor joists.

These can be purchased with or without vapor retarder facings as well as a one with a special flame resistant side for basement walls where the insulation will be left exposed.  This type of insulation is great for areas which have standard stud and joist spacing and are relatively free of obstructions.  They do not readily fit irregular spaces and can create insulation voids. Loose Fill or Sprayed-in-Place insulation is more effective in these irregular locations.

A void of 1-2% can result in a 25-40% loss in R-value in that area

2. Loose Fill – This insulation is made of cellulose which is recycled, shredded newsprint and is chemically treated to resist fire, and fungal and insect growth.  These shreds are blown into space with special pneumatic equipment and are well-suited to irregular areas where other types of insulation are difficult to install well.

The R-Value of Cellulose Insulation is 3.70 per inch.

Cellulose must be installed at a density of 3.5 to 4.4 pounds per square inch to ensure it will not settle and that gaps do not form.  When having cellulose installed, always get a written guarantee of the settled depth from the installer.

Manufacturers use recycled waste materials in the production of loose fill insulation.  Cellulose contains more then 75% recycled newsprint

3. Sprayed-in-place – This insulation uses cellulose, fiberglass and mineral wool that are mixed with an adhesive and blown into wall cavities.  When properly installed, wet-spray insulation resists settling and shifting, and allow the cavity to be completely filled.

4. Foamed-in-place – This type of insulation is typically more expensive than the fiber insulation but is very effective where higher R-values are required or, in irregular areas of your home which would not be adequately covered by a Batt type insulation.  Foamed-in-place insulation is either polyurethane or isocyanurate and is applied by a professional using special equipment to meter, mix and spray the foam into place. Foam can be used for a variety of applications but is especially effective with irregular-shaped surfaces and narrow openings such as shim spaces around doors and windows.  The foam does not act as a vapor barrier and should be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight.

5. Foam Board – Foam boards are rigid and lightweight, and provide structural support and acoustical insulation.  These are designed to be used in confined spaces such as exterior walls, basements, exposed foundations, attics, concrete slabs and cathedral ceilings.

6. Radiant Barriers– These are manufactured from aluminum foils and are used to reduce cooling loads.  The common use is under roof rafters to reduce the heat gain from the sun or, on walls that absorb direct sunlight, I.E., walls facing west without an effective roof overhang.  Because they are designed to reflect the heat, they work well in warm climates but are not recommended in cold climates.

7. Reflective Insulation systems – Similar to the Radiant Barrier, the Reflective Insulation is made from aluminum foils with a backing of kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard.  It is typically used between roof rafters, floor joists, or wall studs because it is most effective in reducing the downward heat flow.

8. Insulating Concrete Forms (ICF) – These serve as both insulation and as part of the wall assembly of your home.  The forms are made of two foam insulation boards and are connected by plastic ties.  Concrete is poured into the forms and the forms are left in place for their insulative value. 

ICFs can cost up to 4% more than the standard wood framing but a home built using this product requires an estimated 44% less energy to heat and 32% less energy to cool when compared to an equivalent wood-framed house. U.S. Dept. of Energy

9. Structural Insulating Panels – SIPs are made up of rigid form core insulation, laminated between two (2) layers of wood sheathing called OSB (Oriented Strand Board).  SIPs replace several components of conventional building such as studs, joists, insulation, vapor barrier and air barrier.  SIPs are most commonly used to build exterior walls but are also used for floor and roof systems.

Work with your contractor and architect, or designer, to carefully plan how the insulation in your home will maximize the effectiveness of your HVAC system and lower your ongoing energy needs. Your UBuildIt Construction Consultant can help you with these types of decisions.

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As modern medicine changes and life expectancy grows, so does our need for products and services that cater to the elderly and those with injuries, illnesses, or various disabilities. A group of architects, product designers, and engineers thought long and hard about this issue and came up with the “Universal Design” concept: The design of products and services applicable to all people regardless of age, ability or circumstance.This concept is already a part of our everyday lives. Some examples would include the “undo” command in most software products, cabinets with pull-out shelves, kitchen counters at several heights and low-floor buses that kneel and are equipped with ramps rather than lifts. Even our kitchenware has started to move towards this concept, such as color-contrast dishware with steep sides assisting the visually impaired or those with dexterity problems.

Why is this important to you?

As an owner-builder, you might be asking why Universal Design would be important to you. There are a large number of reasons to incorporate Universal Design concepts into your home.

Longevity- How long will you live there? Chances are that if you are putting your heart and soul into a customized home, you plan to stay there a while. You may not retire there, but you’ll certainly age there. So what happens if you get arthritis and can’t turn the door knobs anymore? What if you are confined to a wheelchair yet your hallways are too narrow for passage or you’ve had a permanent knee injury and can’t manage the few steps down from the dining room to the living room? Think about sight issues and extra lighting or dexterity problems and toggle versus touch light switches? There are so many things to think about when designing a home around what future use you may require.  Talk with your designer or UBuildIt Construction Consultant on how you may incorporate these into your home’s design.  The cost to remodel a home to include these features can be substantially more than carefully and aesthetically designing a home around them.

Unforeseen illness or injury – We all have the best intentions of living a long and healthy life but what if something happens? Will your home be able to work with your newly introduced needs? 

Resale – With the estimated 78.2 million graying baby boomers and the already established 54 million Americans living with disabilities, the need for human centered design for people of all ages, sizes, and abilities is growing exponentially.

So now, you might be thinking about how to incorporate some of these ideas into your home building plans. There are a number of resources available to help you with any design enhancements. Among the most informative are:

• The Directory of Accessible Building Products offered by the NAHB Research Center
• The Fair Housing Act Design Manual.

Both will give you design enhancement ideas for your home that are both functional and aesthetic. Universal Design features need not look institutional since there are many beautiful products currently available and an ever increasing trend for creating more of them.

These are examples of just some of the Universal Design features already available and in use in home design:

• Step-free entrance
• Various heights of kitchen counters 
• Larger bathroom
•  Adjustable hanging closet rods and shelves
• Front loading washer and dryer
• Open knee space under all sinks
• Windows that can be opened for cross ventilation
•  Slip resistant flooring
• Central vacuum system
• Energy efficient windows with Low-E glass

The world is very different than it was 100 years ago. People are living longer and surviving smarter. As stated by The Center for Universal Design, “All consumers deserve to be recognized and respected.” Developing devices, services, programs, buildings and even homes must be done with an increasingly diverse clientele in mind.   

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The following are some top tips to help you plan a successful and cost effective remodel.  When you work with a UBuildIt Construction Consultant, they will help you in these areas and many more.

• Save money by planning ahead – Go through the design process first and choose everything you want to include in the new room(s), from appliances to light fixtures, etc.  Making product selections early can prevent costly delays later.  These early selections will define your budget and prevent hasty (and costly) decisions later in the project. Then be sure to include all your product and material selections in the contract to avoid confusion and unnecessary change orders. Include the model, size, color, and other specifications. It is also wise to save 10–20 % of your budget to allow for items added to the project.
• Financing – Talk to lenders to determine the loan amount you qualify for.  This is essential to determine the extent of the remodel you can do.
• Draw your ideas – Sketch out your ideas before you talk with a designer or architect.  If you are adding a room, consider how it will affect the traffic patterns for you and your family.  If you are adding a room or story to your home, how will it affect the overall look of the structure?
• Make a portfolio of all your ideas – Assemble your dream home portfolio with pictures, samples, brochures, swatches and other materials which meet the needs of your project.  If you see an element of a friend’s home such as their cabinets, ask them where they were purchased and add them to your notes.
• Labor – Pay attention to how labor intensive some design features may be, for example, laying ceramic tile on kitchen counter-tops and the back-splash. Labor will be a significant portion of your remodel budget.  By planning ahead, you can spend your labor dollars where they are most important to you.
• Compare – Compare products and their prices carefully before you make final decisions. And keep an open mind when you discuss product and design ideas with your contractor. The cheapest is not always the best.  While some items may be a little more initially, the cost of their ongoing operation and maintenance is less expensive over time.  A front loading washer may be more to purchase but you will use 40 -60% less water and 30-50% less energy than the typical top loading machine.
• Be creative – There are often multiple solutions to accomplish a design objective, some more expensive than others. If your remodel project is to add a bathroom, rather than adding square footage to your home, maybe you could “borrow space” from your linen closet. Discuss various options with your contractor.

Remodeling your home is a big step.  With careful planning and thought, you can create your dream home without having to uproot your family and move.

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Green Building takes some additional effort and, in some cases, the initial costs can be somewhat higher.  So why would you want to do this?  Let’s look at the benefits to you and your family to undertake this type of construction.

Dollar savings today and into the future

• Using energy efficient appliances and durable building materials will reduce the ongoing operating cost of your home by using less energy and water
• Improve your productivity while at home by reducing the amount of time you spend maintaining your home.
• Take advantage of possible tax cuts through the Federal Residential Energy Efficiency tax as well possibly your local power company.
• Increase the value of your home by utilizing green building techniques which decrease your ongoing energy and maintenance costs. 96% of homebuyers said they are willing to pay more for a home with building green features.

A healthier and more comfortable home for you and your family

• The EPA ranks indoor air quality among the top 5 environmental risks. Enhance the comfort and health of you and your family through improved air quality.
• Many families are learning they can minimize the strain on the local communities for utilities and natural resources by building green.
• Improve your overall quality of life by living in an environment which contributes to the health of your and your family.

Protect and improve the world around you

• You and your family can enhance and protect a diverse number of ecosystems by reducing your impact on them through the planning and design of your dream home.
• Your actions impact the air and water quality outside your home.  You can have a positive impact by building green.
• Reduce waste both during construction as well as after you have moved into your dream home by practicing a few simple recycling principles.
• Many home owners have found they can conserve and restore natural resources by careful selection of the materials used in their homes.

Using Green Building principles and techniques is a long term investment that continues to payoff for you, your family and the environment in which you live.

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The more you know the better prepared you will be to discuss construction financing. There are many terms that might be new to you, and helpful as you research your options.

1. Soft Costs – These are permit, architectural, engineering, survey, school taxes, utility connection fees and any other fees incurred before your actual construction begins. Funds from your construction loan become available at the beginning of actual construction. These soft costs frequently occur before construction begins. Based on your choice and your lender’s options, you may choose to be “paid back” for these costs when your funds are available at the beginning of construction.

2. Hard Costs – These are the actual costs for all materials and labor associated with the actual building of your home.

3. Closing Costs – These are the costs associated with closing your construction loan such as title cost, loan fees, discount fees, insurance, and appraisals.

4. Interest Reserve – This reserve account is established to pay the estimated interest on the loan during the construction process. This way, you do not have to make any payments during the construction of your home. In the rare occurrence that this reserve is depleted due to lengthy construction times, then you will begin to make interest only payments on your loan.

5. Contingency reserve – This reserve is created to cover unforeseen cost overruns in the construction of your home. It is usually equal to 5% of the hard cost of your construction.

6. Lot Value – The value of your lot will be determined by one of two methods. If the property was purchased in the last 12 months, the purchase price is used to determine the value of the site. If the property has been owned for more than 12 months, an appraiser’s estimate of the site value will be used.

7. Inspection fees – Some lenders require that inspectors determine of the progress of your construction project. If these are needed, there may be a fee charged for each inspection.

8. Loan to Cost Ratio(LTC) – This ratio compares the project cost of your home to the total loan amount. As an example, if the project costs for your home are $350,000 and your loan is $325,000, your LTC ratio is 93%. Maximum LTC ratios vary from lender to lender, and may be a factor you want to take into account when selecting a lender.

9. Draws – Monies drawn during construction to pay for materials and/or suppliers.

While there are a few more elements to construction financing than with your traditional mortgage, you are now better equipped to talk with lenders to determine how they can help you build your dream home.

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Remodeling can come in various shapes, sizes and levels of complexity.  It may be as simple as painting a room or as complex as adding a second story onto your home.  Statistics show that the average person moves once every six years, so why go to the time, effort, expense, and, sometimes, aggravation of a home remodel?  Families consider remodeling for a variety of reasons.

1. They need more room for an expected addition to the family.
2. The house is older and they want to update its interior and/or exterior.
3. They want a place for the teenagers to be with their friends, separate from Mom and Dad.
4. They need a place to store their boat or they just need more storage, period.
5. Loans for New Construction are not available.

The list is as long and as varied as there are homeowners but in each case they had to decide if remodeling versus moving to another home was the right answer for them.

When considering whether to remodel or move, there are several factors you will want to think about.  With your family, consider these questions.

1. If we moved, what additional costs would there be over and above the cost of the new home itself? According to the American Homeowner Foundation, selling your home and moving typically costs about 8-10% of the value of your current home.  Much of this cost goes to moving expenses, closing costs and a real estate broker. So any comparison to the cost of a remodel would need to take this into account.

2. How important is your current location to you and your family? It is not very likely you will find a new home in your same neighborhood and school district. Moving to another neighborhood could change the schools your children attend as well as impact your daily commute.  If staying where you are is important to you, then remodeling may be the answer.

3. How much room is there on your current lot? If you need to add a room, you will need to take into consideration what space there is on your land and if there are any setbacks or easements that could limit your usage.  If you were thinking of adding a second story, you will need to check for any height restrictions in your area.

4. Do you have any time constraints? If your decision to either remodel or move is driven by, say a new addition to the family, you will need to determine if the remodel or a move are most likely to meet your timetable.

5. How long do you plan to stay in your home and if you remodel and what will it do to the value of your home? The general rule of thumb is that any remodeling project that brings your home’s value up to the neighbor’s is a worthy investment.  Real estate experts recommend that a remodeling investment not over-improve (raise the value of your home) more than 10-15% above the median sales price in your neighborhood.  If you over-improve, you will have to hope that when you sell your home, you can find a buyer who likes what you have done, loves the location and is willing to pay your price.

6. Will it cost more to remodel than find a house that has the features we are looking for? To answer this one, you will need to do some homework.  Take some time to do some preliminary design work and talk with a contractor about estimated costs.  Then, talk with your real estate professional about comparable homes in the areas in which you and your family want to live.  If the cost of one choice is significantly more than the other, then you will need to determine if cost is the most important factor for you and your family.  If the costs are roughly comparable then some of the other factors we’ve talked about here can help you determine what is right for you.

7. Can you to stay in your home during the remodel?  If not, where will you and your family live and for how long? Ask your contractor what he/she recommends.  In some cases, you can live in the home throughout the remodel but may be limited in using portions of the house such as the kitchen, a bathroom or a bedroom.  In other instances you and your family will have to move out.  If you can stay in your home, you will need to take into consideration whether your lifestyle will accommodate the chaos and confusion created by a remodel.  As an example, if there is a new baby in the house, can your coexist with the noise that is normal to any building project?

Once you have answered these questions, you and your family can make an informed decision on what is the best way to create your dream home.

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