The Builder In You

Why is Roofing important? Keeping your roofs and gutters in good condition is very important. It is your property’s main defense against the elements, and a very important part of its overall value. Neglecting your roof will cause damp conditions that will quickly bring about decay and expensive structural damage, so it’s always better to be safe than sorry! We usually think of calling a roofing contractor when we notice a leak in the ceiling or some missing tiles, but they can also be hired to provide many other services.

Keeping a tight “lid” on your building is important for blocking out water and moisture infiltration that can quickly lead to costly repairs if left unchecked. Assess your roofing materials and determine if they can make it through another winter. Inspect flashing and other points of entry where water damage can occur and where warm air can escape.

Your roof can also be a good indicator for how well your home is doing with energy loss. One quick and easy thing to do is to clean out your gutters to ensure that water can flow off and away from your home. Since the dawn of history, man has been attempting to protect himself from the rain and the elements. The first materials used were those that were readily at hand, such as slabs of rock, wood, and thatches of grass. In many respects, roofing today is not a lot different, except that basic improvements that have been made in these same materials. One of the best roofs available for using a house is slate. Similar in all respects to the slate that has been used to roof houses throughout Europe for hundreds of years. Houses are still roofed with wood shingles and fired clay tiles. Another basic roofing material, asphalt tar, has been refined into the composition shingle that is the most prevalent roofing material in America today.

Every roofing material has its own set of strengths and weaknesses. The proper material for your roof can best be judged by weighing those strengths and weaknesses against your particular needs and budget allowance. Composition shingles come in a variety of different styles, colors and warranties. The most common and least expensive shingle has a 20 year warranty and is known as the strip shingle or the 3-tab shingle. The second most common composition shingle is the 30 year dimensional shingle. This shingle is also referred to as the laminated shingle or the architectural shingle. It carries a 30 year warranty and is distinguishable from the 20 year shingle by its thicker, heavier look which was designed to imitate the appearance of wood shingles. The laminated shingle also comes in 40 and 50 year versions which are each slightly thicker than the 30 year shingle but are otherwise exactly the same in appearance.

Types of Roofing Pitched roofs are the most common types of roofs.  The pitch of the roof is a measurement of how steep the roof is which determines how quickly the water will run off of the roof.  Roof pitches are typically measured by an equation called the “rise over the run” and is figured in the number of feet that the roof rises in a 12 foot horizontal run.  A “12/12 pitched roof” means that the roof rises 12 feet in a horizontal run of 12 feet and results in a 45 degree angle.  A 12/12 pitch is regarded as quite steep because it is impossible to stand on without some kind of support.  A 3/12 pitch roof is regarded as quite shallow, and is the minimum pitch at which most roofing products will successfully shed water.  Most pitched roofs are between 4/12 and 8/12 in pitch.  At 1/12 pitch or less, a roof is considered to be “flat”.

The most common type of roofing material for pitched roofs is composition shingles.  However, there are many other types of roofing available including wood shingles and shakes, metal, slate, tile and other more exotic materials. 

Flat roofs are roofs with zero pitch or with pitches so low that the water runs off too slowly for overlapped type of roofing materials to successfully shed water.  Because the traditional types of roofing materials used on pitched roofs are not effective, different types of roofing materials have been developed to deal with this problem.  For many years,  that was limited to tar and gravel and flat seamed soldered metal.  However, in the last twenty years or so, many new types of flat roof systems have been developed, including plastic, rubber and modified bitumen roof materials.  The most common of these in use today on residential homes is modified bitumen.  This material is made by combining asphalt (bitumen) with various chemicals whose purpose is to prolong the viable lifetime of the asphalt product.  These chemicals fall into two basic categories, the first of which is elastifiers, whose purpose is to keep the asphalt flexible, and the second,  UV blockers, whose purpose is to stop ultraviolet light from degrading the product.  In combination, these chemicals greatly extend the lifetime of the asphalt.  This material comes in large rolls which are then melted together to form one uniform sheet of material across the flat roof.  Although tar and gravel is still used to some degree, it is fast disappearing from use because the modified bitumen is both cheaper and more effective. 

Although the strip shingle and the laminated shingle account for 95% of all composition shingle roofs there are numerous alternatives including hail resistant shingles and specialty shingles.

3-tab composition shingles are by far the most commonly used shingle in America. They have a 20 year warranty and are the most inexpensive roofing material available. Their chief attributes are low price, ease of application and wide selection of available colors. Their disadvantages are relatively short life expectancy and their plain, unadorned appearance. This roof appearance consists of identical 5” X 12” rectangles repeating endlessly across the roof. This unfortunately tends to exaggerate and highlight any variation in the pattern caused by a high rafter or sag in the decking.

Laminated shingles start off with much the same construction as a 3-tab or strip shingle but then an extra layer of material cut into a saw-tooth pattern is glued on (or laminated) to the exposed portion of the shingle. This makes the shingle thicker and longer lasting. In addition, multiple variations in the saw-toothed give the shingle a varied thatched-like appearance so that the roof does not show any repeating pattern. This combination of extra thickness and random appearance is much more successful in hiding the defects in the roof deck and is one of these shingles main attributes. While these shingles are considerably different, as a class, from the 3-tab shingles there is little or no difference in appearance between the 30, 40 and 50 year versions.

Hail resistant shingles also come in both 3-tab and laminated styles. However the 3-tab style carries a 30 year warranty and the laminated style carries the 50 year warranty. These shingles do not appear any different to the naked eye from the regular 3-tab and laminated shingles. However they are manufactured using a special asphalt called modified bitumen, which contains 2 types of special chemical modifiers known as elastifiers and UV blockers. These shingles will pass a level 4 impact resistant test and qualify home owners in Travis, Williamson and Hays Counties for a 16% reduction in home owners rates. However, these shingles are quite expensive and usually require 8-10 years before their reduced insurance rate saves enough money to save the additional cost.

Specialty Shingles – Although specialty shingles only account for 2-3% of the composition shingle market there is a large number of different types and styles to choose from. There are shingles embossed with a wood grain, shingles designed to look like slate, extremely heavy and thick shingles, shingles with multiple layers of laminate and even copper plated shingles.

We hope that this article has been of some help in making your decision on roofing. Using a qualified Construction Consultant; if you plan to run the project yourself is very important also so make your choices carefully.

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Being your own Project Manager is all about organization and management of the details of the job.  Keeping yourself organized can save you a lot of time and money, not to mention frustration. Here are just few suggestions to keep you organized:

Keep everything in one place. You can use a set of files or a single notebook. Most construction Project Managers have found a notebook works the best.  Always have something to take notes in when you are at a job site.

Some of the things that you can keep in your notebook or files.

• Things to do list
• Telephone log showing when you called, who and what was said.
• List of all subcontractors and suppliers along with phone numbers and the best time to contact them.
• A place for general notes
• A copy of all the bids
• A copy of the specifications

Keep a copy of the blueprints. Always bring them with you to the job site.

Keep a file for all your financing documents.  This is especially true if you are using a construction loan.  You will need a copy of your original budget and copies of all your draw sheets.  These are the documents that you present to your construction lender to disburse funds on your construction loan.

Track your actual expenses versus your projected budget.  Sometimes your construction loan documents will be all you need, but usually there are some items that you do not run through your construction loan, like small items and items at the beginning of the process before you get your loan.   You might want to use a spreadsheet to keep track of all items.

Keep a construction calendar or flow chart. This helps you know when to schedule the subcontractors and order materials.  One suggestion is to buy a plastic calendar for two-three months and keep track of your project.  You can use different colored pens for each subcontractor.    Call the subcontractors a couple weeks in advance to keep them a breast of the progress of your project.  You will also need to order materials, sometimes well in advance, to have them ready for the subcontractors. For example, windows and kitchen cabinets take 3 to 6 weeks to be delivered after you have made your original order.  Make sure you look ahead and try to anticipate the needs that will arise.

Communicate regularly.   Regular and frequent communication with your subcontractors and suppliers will ensure there are no costly mistakes or time delays.

Being your own Project Manager is a major undertaking but with planning and organization you can have the dream home you have always wanted.  Contact your UBuildIt office today to hear how they can help you be a successful Project Manager.

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Can you start a home construction project in the winter?

YES, you can start a construction project in the winter under the right circumstances.  There are even some advantages to starting a project in the winter.  Here are the pros and cons of starting a project in the winter months:

PROS:

The subcontractors still need to work during the winter so you may be able to get a better price during the winter.

The subcontractors are less busy so they are more likely to meet your schedule.

By starting in the winter you will be off season of a typical construction schedule and therefore the subcontractors and suppliers may be less busy throughout your project.  Example: lining up a foundation company is easier during the winter than in the spring or early summer, and finding a framing crew is easier during the winter than during the summer.

Subcontractors can continue to work while it snows verses rain.

The government agencies will be less busy so you can get your permits quicker.

CONS:

You will need to be very conscientious about not letting frost get into the ground after the excavation is done and before your foundation is completed.  This involves watching the weather very closely and covering the ground with thermal blankets if needed.

The days are shorter and colder and therefore the subcontractors have to work shorter days.

There will probably be more weather delays.

You may have to pay to have your site plowed and shoveled.

It can be harder to get large trucks in and out of your project.

You may need to use temporary heat to heat your home, the workers themselves, or some of the ground so you can dig.

Suggestions for starting a project in the winter months:

If your site gets a lot of sun you will have an easier time of starting a project in the winter.

If your building site gets very little sun or no sun at all, it is probably best not to start a project after the ground has frozen.

Cut some trees down to get more sun on your building site.

Make sure you have your excavation and foundation companies scheduled very close together so you have less chance of frost getting into the soil under the foundation.

Find out where you can buy or rent some concrete thermal blankets before you need them.

Have someone set up to plow your site every time it snows more than 3-4 inches.

Once the foundation and concrete floors are in, the major obstacles of starting in the winter are over.  Sometimes the concrete floors can be poured after the house has been framed and temporary heat can be added to the area.

We hope this article has been of some help to you while you are deciding whether you start your project now or later. During the Planning stage of your project; winter is a better time to get started so you can hit the ground running; so to speak, when Winter leaves us and Spring begins!

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A whopping 85-90% of the energy used by a washing machine goes to just heating the water. So you can save a bundle by either lowering the temperature, or getting a machine that uses less water (or both).

Front-loading washers use 40-60% less water and 30-50% less energy than typical top-loaders (16 to 24 gallons vs. up to 40 gallons, and 400-560 kWh/yr. vsi. 800 kWh/yr.). They cost a little more up front (starting around $700), but they can slash your energy bill. Some states (such as Oregon) offer tax credits or rebates for the purchase of a front-loading washer.

A whopping 85-90% of the energy used by a washing machine goes to just heating the water. So you can save a bundle by either lowering the temperature, or getting a machine that uses less water (or both).

• How much energy can you save by lowering the water temperature? A lot. Here’s the cost when your water is heated with electricity:

• Assumes 39-gallon model, 380 loads/yr. (7.5 loads/wk.), and water heated electrically at a cost of 10¢/kWh. As reprinted from the Rocky Mountain Institute.

• To put in perspective how wasteful hot water is, washing your clothes in hot instead of cold uses more electricity than leaving the refrigerator door open 24 hours a day. (Fridge open 24/7: 180 watts x 13 extra hours day x 365 days/yr. = 854 kWh.)

• Always use cold water for the RINSE cycle. Using warm or hot water for the Rinse cycle doesn’t get your clothes any cleaner.
• Try using warm or cold water for the WASH cycle instead of hot water. Hot water shrinks your clothes, anyway. Hot water also fades and wears your clothes out quicker.
• If you feel that warm water doesn’t clean as well for you as hot, then just use a warm pre-soak. Soaking clothes in warm water is usually just as good or better as hot water with no soak.
• Use a centrifuge like the Spin Dryer which removes most of the water from washed clothes by spinning them really fast. That means a lot less time in the dryer, saving energy.
• Run around the house naked. Then you’ll have less clothes to wash.
• Replace your washer with an Energy Star model. The EPA has an excellent list of EnergyStar washers which shows exactly how much water and energy they use, and how much better that is than a typical washer. The EPA also has some good general info on EnergyStar washers. Most EnergyStar models are front-loaders, but some are top-loaders. (Who wants to research that so I can publish a list on this website?) Below is more info on front-loading washing machines.

Front-loading washing machines

• Front-loading washers use 40-60% less water and 30-50% less energy than typical top-loaders (16 to 24 gallons vs. up to 40 gallons, and 400-560 kWh/yr. vsi. 800 kWh/yr.). They cost a little more up front (starting around $700), but they can slash your energy bill. Some states (such as Oregon) offer tax credits or rebates for the purchase of a front-loading washer.
• Your clothes will also last longer with a front-loader, because they gently tumble your clothes instead of jerking them around with an agitator — but they still get your clothes just as clean as a regular washer.
• Front-load washers squeeze more of the water out of your clothes, so you’ll spend less to dry your clothes.
• Front-loaders usually have a higher capacity, so it’s easier to wash large items like bedspreads, rugs, and sleeping bags.
• If you really prefer top-loaders, there are some Energy Star models like the EcoWasher that rival front-loaders for miserly water and energy use. (Unfortunately, the EPA’s list of Energy Star washers doesn’t bother to mention whether each washer is top-load or front-load. Who wants to volunteer to look up that information so I can publish it on this site?)
• Wikipedia has a good a good comparison of top-loaders to front-loaders.
• The question everyone wants to know is, “Will a front-loading washer pay for itself in increased savings?” We have the answer to that question below.

Probably, but it depends on a few factors. Let’s first look at how much a front-loader saves vs. a top-loader, if you have an electric water heater. (If you have a gas water heater then skip to that section.) As much as 90% of the energy used to wash a load of clothes goes just towards heating the water, and we include that cost in the table.

If you’re getting a new washer anyway: So will this pay for itself? Well, a front-loader saves the typical family $74/yr, and costs $400 more to buy. ($700 for a front-loader vs. $300 for a top-loader.) If you’re going to buy a new machine anyway (you’re in a new home or your old one died), then the front-loader will pay for itself in 5-1/2 years. Since the typical life of a washing machine is 13 years, you should go on to save an additional $555 over the life of the washer. Of course, if you get a rebate from your local utility or state (such as Oregon), then it’s an even better deal.

But what if you already have a perfectly usable top-loader? In that case, let’s say you can sell it for $100, so your cost for a new front-loader is $600 ($700 retail – $100 for your old machine). In that case it will take eight years to pay off the washer. After an additional five years, you should go on to save an additional $370 over the life of the washer.

What if you wash a lot fewer than eight loads a week? Then it’s probably not worth it. You can do the math yourself to see, since I included the Per-Load figures in the table above.

Remember the other advantages to a front-loader, including gentler washing action which makes your clothes last longer (even though they still get just as clean), the ability to wash larger items such as blankets and bedspreads, and the fact that they squeeze more water out of your clothes so it takes less time and money to dry them.

Also remember that you can save over $100 a year from simply switching from hot water to cold water, without having to trade in your washer.

Finally, remember that energy costs could increase! Many experts are predicting a surge in the cost of electricity and natural gas over the next decade. If that happens, your savings could be even more dramatic.

If you’re getting a new washer anyway: So will this pay for itself? Well, a front-loader saves the typical family $44/yr, and costs $400 more to buy. ($700 for a front-loader vs. $300 for a top-loader.) If you’re going to buy a new machine anyway (you’re in a new home or your old one died), then the front-loader will pay for itself in 9 years. Since the typical life of a washing machine is 13 years, you should go on to save an additional $176 over the life of the washer.

But what if you already have a perfectly usable top-loader? In that case, let’s say you can sell it for $100, so your cost for a new front-loader is $600 ($700 retail – $100 for your old machine). In that case it will take 14 years to pay off the new washer, except that the washer only has a typical life of 13 years. So in this case, wait until your existing washer dies before buying a new one.

What if you wash a lot fewer than eight loads a week? Then it’s probably not worth it. You can do the math yourself to see, since I included the Per-Load figures in the table above.

Remember the other advantages to a front-loader, including gentler washing action which makes your clothes last longer (even though they still get just as clean), the ability to wash larger items such as blankets and bedspreads, and the fact that they squeeze more water out of your clothes so it takes less time and money to dry them.

Finally, remember that energy costs could increase! Many experts are predicting a surge in the cost of electricity and natural gas over the next decade. If that happens, your savings could be even more dramatic.

Make sure you work with a qualified person to help you choose just the right washer for you and your family.

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Many people dream of building or owning a log home.  The log home industry has been growing at a rate of 15 percent for the last 10 years. Here are some key items to think about when considering building a log home:

• Log homes typically cost 20 to 30 percent more than a conventionally built home.
• The same size log home is typically worth 30 to 40 percent more than a conventional home.
• Log homes usually sell much faster than regular homes.
• Log homes are harder to build than traditional homes.

Log homes can be built to almost any set of plans, but with the cost of log homes being considerably more than traditionally built homes here are some suggestions on how to keep the cost down as much as possible:

• Keep the exterior log structure as rectangular as possible.  As with all construction, every extra corner adds to the cost of the project.  This is especially true with log homes.  Simple rectangular, “T”, or “L” shaped homes work best.
• Keep the roof structure as simple as possible.
• Build only part of your home with logs, such as the great room or front porch and build the rest of the home in the more traditional manner.
• Build most or all of the interior walls with traditional framing.  This allows drywall to be put up, which breaks up all the wood and brightens the home.
• Plan on putting all of the plumbing on the interior walls.  Carving out space for plumbing lines in a log structure is very difficult and not recommended. Without insulation, water lines can easily freeze.
• Install the least amount of electrical fixtures in the log structure as possible.  One simple way to do this is to install the plug boxes in the floor verses the wall of the log structure.
• Install most of your kitchen cabinets on a flat interior wall or plan on building a wall in front of the log wall in your kitchen area.  Cabinets can be installed on log wall but it is very difficult and costly.

Climate and Moisture content of the logs needs to be considered; depending on where you are building your log home.  As logs dry out they shrink, sometimes a substantial amount.  Manufacturers have developed techniques for dealing with this shrinkage, such as leaving 4 to 6 inches above every door and window or installing special systems to help level the floor or ceiling.

Another way to achieve the feel of a log home is to build a traditional home and add log accents.  This can include almost any part of the home such as: siding, posts, beams, stairs, railing, trim around windows and doors, fireplace mantles, built-in furniture and more.  One can create the feel of a log home with out the cost of a complete log home.

Log homes are livable, comfortable and calm. Maybe it’s built into our psychology from centuries of our ancestors living in natural settings, but everything from acoustics to even the natural smell of wood in the home results in a very warm and comfortable atmosphere. Quiet environments and calm settings that reduce the stress of daily life and therefore promote healthy living.

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Garage doors add a beautiful design element to your home’s exterior as well as provide a safe, secure and easy access to your garage.  Today’s garage doors come in a variety of types and styles, and are available in different materials, depending on your needs and tastes.

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You will hear the term custom home used a lot but what does it really mean?  Let’s look at some different terms that might be used as you investigate building your dream home.

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A construction loan is one of the very first steps in the home building or remodeling process.  This allows you to know the scope of the project you qualify for. But where do you start? You have probably applied for home loans in the past but will it be the same for a construction loan?  A construction loan is somewhat different than any mortgage you may have applied for in the past, and, depending upon your needs, there are several types of loans available.

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Whether you are remodeling or building a new home, the topic of change orders will always come up.

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An alternative building system to a conventional stick built home is called SIPs.  SIPs is an acronym for Structurally Insulated Panels.  SIPs are made up of rigid form core insulation, laminated between two (2) layers of wood sheathing called OSB (Oriented Strand Board).

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Skylights let natural light stream into your home, bringing warmth and a feeling of spaciousness. When properly selected and used, they can reduce your need for electric lighting and minimize your heating and cooling costs.

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Sunrooms are a wonderful addition to your home.  They bring the beauty of nature and sunlight into your home while keeping out the cold, and the heat and bugs. The reasons vary for either adding a sunroom to your existing home, or to including it in the plans for the construction of your new dream home.

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The place where you take your daily shower is probably not something your think about a lot. As long as there is enough hot water and the shower stall is clean, your daily needs are met. But, when you contemplate remodeling that bathroom or building your dream home and need to plan for its bathrooms, there are a lot of choices from which to select.

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Wikipedia defines a plumbing fixture as “a device which is part of a system to deliver and drain away water, but which is also configured to enable a particular use.” This broad definition includes sinks, lavatories, toilets, showers, tubs, faucets and water heaters.

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Sinks can be found in many different rooms in your home – the bathroom, the kitchen, maybe even a bar sink in your den or family room.  Because bathroom and kitchen sinks are the most common, they will be our focus.

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